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This is my take on the E-11 blaster from Return of the Jedi. I wasn't a fan of the available versions out there, mainly because the barrels seemed too thin compared to what we saw in the movie. So, I designed this version with thicker barrels to get it closer to the screen-accurate look, and added the option for a flat front barrel or an ANH-style barrel tip.
You can also choose between two grip styles—smooth or knurled—so you can make it feel just right. It’s got all the key features you'd expect, like the scope, trigger guard, and d-ring. I’ve even included an option to make the magazine removable using magnets, but if you'd prefer a more solid design, you can skip that.
You can find the stand from the photos here, the stand is a snug fit on the knurled grip but still works fine.
What You'll Need:
- CA glue (for assembly)
- The following fasteners:
- 26 x M3 8mm to 12mm Machine Head bolts (Fins, Stock supports, Mag well and side details)
- 4 x M3 3mm to 5mm Machine Head bolts (Top Sight strip, 2 infront of scope and 2 on back sight)
- 8 x M3 8mm Cap Head bolts (Scope Mount and stock)
- 2 x M4 Machine Head bolts (up to 20mm long for barrel tips)
- 8 x 10mm Diameter, 2mm tall round magnets (optional, for removable magazine feature)
Assembly Instructions:
Pre-Printing: Choose your preferred grip and barrel style in the Bambu Project file and drag them onto the first build plate, then right click and select “Arrange”.
Printing: I print this across two build plates, usually I let it print overnight, but you can split it further if needed.
Assembly Order:
- Add the fins to the front barrel, followed by the front stock support, which should be placed on the underside of the barrel.
- Attach the front sights, front d-ring holder, and the front d-ring to the front of the barrel.
- Install the magazine well to the rear barrel.
- Attach the side, rear upper, and rear lower details to the rear barrel.
- Install the end cap connector then end cap and the rear d-ring in rear barrel
- Attach the scope parts to the top sight strip. The scope is keyed, ensuring proper alignment and making it easy to install. Once aligned, glue it to the rear barrel.
- Add the trigger guard and selector switch to the grip, then glue the grip to the rear barrel.
- Glue the front and rear barrels together.
- Screw the rear stock, front stock, and front grip together.
- Screw rear stock into rear barrel and secure the front stock to the front stock supports by adding glue on the side and sliding it on top of them.
Weathering Tips (a.k.a. Making it Look Like It’s Actually Seen Some Action):
For weathering, I keep it simple but effective. I usually start with some silver Rub’n’Buff or AK’s Silver Metallic Wax Paint – both work great. I take an old rag (mine’s probably older than the franchise at this point), wrap it tightly around my index finger, and then dab a small amount of Rub’n’Buff onto the rag thats on the tip of my finger. From there, I gently rub my rag covered finger over the edges and raised details to bring out that worn metal look. It gives you those nice, subtle highlights that really make it pop.
Then it’s time for the paint wash. I use raw umber, burnt sienna, nutmeg brown, brown, and black acrylics. The browns and umber give it that dirty, grimy look, and the burnt sienna combined with some Vallejo rust effects adds a nice rusty feel. If you're after a dusty, weather-beaten vibe, weathering powders or effect paints work great too.
I do one color at a time with a super wet brush – dab it into all the little nooks and crannies, and then when it’s just barely dry, I wipe it back with a rag. That leaves the good stuff sitting in the cracks. Since this model is already printed in black, I usually skip the black paint pass.
Once all that’s dry, I’ll hit it with one more light pass of silver wax to bring out the final highlights, and touch up any spots that need a little extra love. It’s honestly a super straightforward process, but it makes a huge difference. Just take your time and enjoy it – grunge is your friend here.
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